The Ramos Gin Fizz is a cocktail with a rich history that dates back to 1888 in New Orleans. It was created by Henry C. Ramos at his bar, the Imperial Cabinet Saloon⁶. The drink quickly became a sensation, known for its frothy texture and labor-intensive preparation. Ramos's recipe was so popular that he employed a team of shaker boys to meet the demand, each shaking the cocktail for up to 15 minutes to achieve the perfect consistency⁶.
Recognized by the International Bartenders Association as a popular cocktail recipe.
The Ramos Gin Fizz has many lovely distinguishable attributes: its frothy cap, its brunchy day-drinking designation, its traceability to New Orleans and one Henry Charles “Carl” Ramos at the late-19th-century civilized sipping station, the Imperial Cabinet Saloon. But it's a drink that takes effort, and perhaps its most bemoaned, celebrated, and talked-about trait is the shake-shake-shaking.
As the story goes, Carl Ramos hired young men by the dozens to shake and shake only, most especially during festivals and high-tourist days because the drink had to be agitated to the nth degree for 12 to 15 minutes. Twelve to 15 minutes?! I can barely stay on a treadmill or hold a thought in my head for that long. Fifteen minutes of shaking would require some kind of superhuman countenance (or, perhaps, a threatening labor policy—maybe Ramos wasn't such a nice guy after all).
So how long should you shake a Ramos? “This is always a fun one to answer,” says NOLA barman Chris Hannah, whose time at French 75 brought in a James Beard Award and who now co-owns Jewel of the South and Manolito. “Honestly, between 25 and 45 seconds; and you can do this each way—new school and old, in that amount of time.”
What does he mean by new and old school? For the latter, he says, dry-shake (that is, without ice) everything—gin (London dry will do just fine, but if you're a stickler for historical accuracy and often enjoy being that argumentative punk at parties, get yourself some Old Tom, as Ramos used himself), lemon juice, sweetening component, egg white, cream, and soda water—for about 10 seconds, then another 15 with ice for proper chilling and dilution. To go new school, Hannah recommends shaking it all with ice for 15 to 20 seconds. So for both, “you still have the show of 15 to 20 seconds more that the guests like to see,” he says, laughing. Extra shaking equals showmanship, an ingredient never to be discounted.
In perhaps the most ironic twist in New Orleans cocktail history, the Ramos Gin Fizz was invented by a bar owner who actually was not a fan of drinking: Mr. Henry C. Ramos, known to his friends as Carl. Ramos, originally born in Indiana, began his career in a beer saloon called Exchange Alley and worked the alcohol circuit in Baton Rouge for several years before deciding to invest in his own property in New Orleans with his brother as a partner. The pair purchased the Imperial Cabinet in 1887, a bar located on Gravier Street in what is now the Central Business District. Ramos was widely respected in the community and was considered to be a gentleman of the highest quality; he ran his bar to reflect this. He closed his bar every evening at the decent hour of 8 o'clock to discourage all-night drinking binges and was open for a mere two hours on Sunday afternoons and only then because the community begged it.
The Imperial Cabinet was upheld to strict standards of temperance and morality, accepting only the most well-behaved of clientele. Ramos was known to spend his time conversing with his patrons to keep an eye out for anyone who was toeing the line of tipsy. He hated drunkenness and ensured that any unruly patrons were pointed out to the bartenders so that no further drinks would be served. The 1928 New Orleans Item-Tribune states that “nobody could get drunk at the Ramos bar, not only because old Henry wouldn't let them, but because drunkenness would take away their appreciation of the drinks.”
It was in this culture of quality over quantity that the Ramos Gin Fizz was created by Ramos himself in 1888.
The Ramos Gin Fizz is a testament to the golden age of cocktails, a time when bartenders were not just mixologists but also showmen. Despite its demanding preparation, the drink has endured for over a century, beloved for its creamy texture and complex flavor profile. It's a cocktail that requires patience and effort, but the result is a sublime experience that's worth the wait. So, shake up a Ramos Gin Fizz and savor a piece of cocktail history¹.